Luang Prabang- Saving Architecture but Losing Soul




Wat Xieng Thong
In 1995, Luang Prabang was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its mixture of French colonial villas, Buddhist temples and beautiful landscapes are enchanting to visitors. Ever since, tourism has been a fundamental aspect of the town's economy and culture. While the architectural heritage has been protected by UNESCO regulations, Luang Prabang as a living city has become defined by its past and has steadily rejected long term residents. Prices have risen dramatically, leaving only the wealthy able to afford to live in Luang Prabang.

Francis Engelmann, former UNESCO consultant, stated 'we have saved Luang Prabang's buildings but we have lots its soul'. Anthropologist David Berliner refers to this as the ‘unescoization’; the development into ‘idealised traditions’ for the tourist gaze. Traditions like the monks’ alms procession, as I've previously written about, have been affected by tourists turning the ritual into a performance to be gawked at.
Some residents express frustration at the restrictions on building supplies that can be used, as certain materials are considered ‘inauthentic’. Unlike Western tourists they do not feel nostalgic about a pre-globalised past and want to build modern houses.

The essentialisation of Luang Prabang to its architecture and heritage have reduced it, not allowing for growth; or rather only allowing for growth to service tourism as many former homes and small stores are converted into restaurants, travel agencies and even luxury hotels.


There is no clear solution, but as student travellers we can recognise the ‘global construction of the local’ (Massey 1995); Luang Prabang shouldn't be viewed as an isolated pure slice of heritage but shaped by international relationships both past and present. Researching further and looking beyond what tourist companies push, helps us be both thrifty and mindful in our travels.

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